Saturday, February 7, 2009

A delayed update

It’s been almost two weeks since my last update. My apologies for those who may be wondering what happened to me. I’ve been lazy what can I say. No excuse tonight as I’m spending the evening at home enjoying what would be the French equivalent of ‘chips for dinner’... Bread and brie. Washed down with a nice, little Brouilly that my friend Ian left behind on his visit last week.

So... I thought it best to leave this update until Saturday morning now. A Friday night alone, filled with wine and cheese, just does not put you in that proper, positive frame of mind. Instead, I’m taking the opportunity to procrastinate from cleaning house and doing my expense accounts. It really isn’t right that I should still have menial tasks while I’m over here.

The highlight of the last two weeks was the visit from my friend Ian from Calgary who had just volunteered himself to the economic crisis by quitting his job. I could have used his visit as an excuse to see all those places that just don’t work when you go alone, but I couldn’t resist re-experiencing the different places that I’d been to before thinking how much friends from home would appreciate this. In fact, when it came to food, I often thought of Ian as, out of all of you, he would be the one to most appreciate all things French; indulging in foie gras, cheese, wine, bread and even managing to fight off jet-lag to stick to the French schedule of dinner at 8 or 9 so we wouldn’t be the only people at the restaurant.

As you may have heard on the news, there was a general strike last week. It only lasted a day and I think the union strategy was to keep you guessing what would be running and what wouldn’t. Trains, metros and half the stores were closed, but for some reason, the street cleaners were out first thing in the morning. We came across a strike march that stretched for miles and walked along with it for no other reason than trying to figure out what the strike was all about. Disappointingly, but not surprisingly, it was all about money. Damn the man!

On the weekend we made our way by TGV down to Burgundy to visit another old friend from the Ottawa days. Our friend Mike moved here about 8 years ago and has gone native, living the stereotypic French country life that we all think of; house overlooking a French chateau surrounded by vineyards right on the outskirts of a small village with houses dating somewhere from the 17th or 18th century. I’m not sure Mike’s wife appreciated all the English and Quebecois that was being spoken all weekend but it was good to spend a weekend not asking “what does that mean”? The only disappointment was being surrounded by all these tiny, independent wineries and not a single one open for tastings or purchases. Apparently, in the off season, they just don’t give a damn. Even the ones with the open sign were completely deserted.
The final chapter of Ian’s visit gave me much satisfaction as I have not been able to properly describe one of the most common French experiences. It is one that has to be lived and I couldn’t repress an inner smile as, on the train ride out to the airport, Ian experienced an example of communal cooperation as everyone sucks in their gut at the same time so the train doors can close.

I learned a new French term last week. “Vis-a-vis”. I have been experiencing vis-a-vis since my first day here, but I did not know there was an actual term for it. It is an experience not unique to Paris but to large, concentrated cities and very foreign to most Vancouverites. Loosely translated it is view to view... as in my view looks directly onto your view... as in from my window I can look directly into a number of other apartments... and conversely, they can look into mine. There are about 4 apartments that can indirectly vis-a-vis into my shower room. I try to be discrete, but I’m afraid the view may have caused marital discord. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Ian and I thought we were about to get a vis-a-vis show from an attractive blonde across the way. I know you’re supposed look away... but it is realllly difficult. Alas, she was just getting ready for a night out so there was nothing to tell... but I keep an eye in that direction just in case.... My philosophy here is if you don’t want people to look, close your damn drapes!

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